Just like trends in menswear, men's haircut styles also experience cycles. And in our current hybrid work landscape, men are experimenting with hairstyles they might not have considered before. We consulted Chrissie Schwalje, the owner of Parlor Hair Studio in Montclair, NJ with over 20 years of experience cutting guys' hair, on what the in-demand haircuts for guys will be in 2024, what works best for various face shapes, and how to style them.
While the hairstyles listed here are excellent choices for the year's trendier looks, they also exude a timeless quality.
HOW TO FIND THE RIGHT STYLE FOR YOU
Authenticity is key. Your choice of haircut should appeal to you first. Different hair textures, face shapes, and personal tastes should each play a part in the decision. With that said, don't be afraid to experiment. Discovery is part of the fun. Below are the terms to know when finding and discussing the best haircut for you. While only a few of these terms may be directly relevant to you, a working understanding of each will enhance your ability to arrive at your desired look.
1. Clipper Cut: Using clippers to achieve a close, uniform one-length cut or a shorter-length fade.
2. Scissors Over Comb: Employing scissors over a comb to blend and shape the hair resulting in a softer, more organic finish.
3. Point Cutting: Technique used to create texture and soften edges by using the scissor tips.
4. Grade: The designated length or level of the hair, often referred to as a clipper guard number.
5. Fringe or Bangs: Hair that is cut shorter and styled to fall over the forehead, typically in-between the temples.
6. Fade: A hairstyle where the hair smoothly transitions from very short to longer, typically on the sides and back.
7. Taper: Similar to a fade but involves a gradual length transition.
8. Hard Part: A clearly defined and shaved parting line, usually created with clippers or a straight razor. 9. Neckline Shape: The contour and style of the hairline at the back of the neck.
10. Arch: A shaped curve or design cut into the hair, often around the ears.
11. Thinned Out: Reducing bulk by using thinning shears, point cutting, or straight edge razor, resulting in a lighter texture.
12. Razored: Cutting hair with a straight-edge razor to achieve a softer and more textured finish
13. Layered: Cutting hair at elevation to create various lengths and add depth and movement.
14. Choppy: Deliberately creating an uneven and textured look for an intentionally disheveled, stylish appearance.
15. Texturizing: Removing hair internally using a straight razor, shears, or thinning shears to create a dynamic and layered effect.
SHORT HAIRCUT STYLES
Here's a look at the year's sought-after classic and classy short styles.
Simple, clean, and extremely low-maintenance, a classic buzz cut is never out of style. This option is popular during hot months when you want to stay cool but stop just short of the fully bald look. And according to Chrissie Schwalje, a big plus about this cut is that it's easily achieved by a professional stylist. "While some may attempt [the buzz cut] at home, it's always best to have your barber or stylist handle it to avoid patchy areas or missed spots," she says.
She also suggests determining which clipper guard number to use with your stylist ahead of time, as different numbers will cut at different lengths, exposing more or less of your scalp. "The buzz cut is straightforward, but it does come with some risk; you should feel certain that your head shape is favorable," she adds. Styling Suggestion: Styling products are mostly unnecessary here, but you can use a scalp oil or moisturizer like the OI Oil from Davines to address any seasonal flakes.
We admittedly might be cheating with this one, since, according to Schwalje, a line up is more of a meticulous styling detail than a traditional haircut itself. It involves using a trimmer to sculpt the hairline, regardless of the amount of hair that's actually been cut beforehand. So if your hair is already short and you're happy with the length, you could simply request a line up to create a neater, more defined look around your head and face. "Most barbers utilize the natural contour of the hairline to enhance its shape," explains Schwalje. "This technique suits any face shape but may not be ideal for heavily receding hairlines, as it can accentuate the recession." Styling Suggestion: Style the hair using a boar bristle brush to get the hair to lay close and neatly to the head shape. Apply a shiny pomade like this one from Cremo to get any flyaways to lay smooth and add a nice finish to the look.
A classic style that continues to provide an edgy cool look, the pomp now features a modern twist with a messier top for a more lived-in finish. "It's an excellent choice for guys with medium to finer hair and rounder or square face shapes," says Schwalje. "However, due to the added height, it may not be the best fit for oblong faces, as it can elongate the appearance further." Schwalje adds when requesting this style, ask your stylist to maintain the longest length in the front, while tapering the back and sides quite short and tight. Styling Suggestion: Apply blow-dry balm like the one from Hairstory and use a round brush to dry the top back. Finish the look with a pliable pomade like the one from Malin+Goetz for a textured finish.
This cut features a short and tapered back and sides with a slightly longer textured top. It's intentionally styled without a part or strong direction to create a movement look. "Ideal for square face shapes, the flat and tight sides accentuate a strong jawline, this cut is typically styled more forward with a slight push-off to the side," says Schwalje. Styling Suggestion: Get a nice matte pomade, such as the one offered by Baxter of California. Rub a pea-sized amount into your palms and apply in a crisscross pattern through the hair. Use your fingers to pick and place pieces of hair for varied texture. How to Get Matthew McConaughey's Signature Wavy Hairstyle
MEDIUM HAIRCUT STYLES
Here are four medium-length cuts that play in the sweet spot between business and pleasure.
Schwalje calls this look "a fusion of clean-cut and creative flair." The high-top dreads style features manicured sides and back for a finished and polished look, complemented by longer twists or dreads on top that exude an artsy vibe. Pioneered by artists like Basquiat, the look has evolved to be wearable for the everyday guy. Schwalje suggests that when opting for this cut, ask your stylist to create a disconnect–keeping a longer top of dreads with a high tight fade on the sides and back. "Regular washing and conditioning every two or three weeks with this cut is crucial for maintaining hair health," she says. Styling Suggestion: Use a shampoo that is scalp-friendly, such as Blu Atlas Coconut Apricot Shampoo. Always consult your stylist for advice on dread care and maintenance frequency.
This clean look is cut with the intention of easy styling. "The sides are kept short, approximately one half inch, while the top is slightly longer, allowing for easy combing into shape," Schwalje explains. The secret to the refined appearance of this cut is maintaining cleanliness around the ears. Schwalje adds that the weight of the haircut is concentrated on the rounds of the head, so individuals with wider head shapes should be cautious. "It suits longer, leaner head shapes, providing a balanced and polished finish," she says. Styling Suggestion: Use a dryer to blow the hair directionally back while raking with your fingers. Apply grooming paste like this option from American Crew, then use a comb to create a clean parting on one side. Comb the hair diagonally up and back on the heavier side and simply back on the leaner side.
This cut that saw some popularity in the 90s seems to be making a bit of a comeback. Schwalje points to the middle part as the central feature of the mid-length curtain cut, with hair cascading to just above the ears. "While this haircut suits most head shapes and hair textures, individuals with a higher peak on the top of the head or extremely thick textures may find the look less fitting," she notes. Styling Suggestion: It can be styled casually with a touch of sea salt spray, such as the one offered by Bumble and Bumble, and a tousled blow dry. Or for a more groomed and refined look, shift the part slightly and slick it back.
This is a great cut for those who want to boast their natural wave or curl texture. The sides and back are maintained at a shorter length, while the forward direction of the top enables a textured, fringy appearance. Schwalje says that if you are feeling extra adventurous, try growing the back out for a slight mullet, which is currently very in trend. "Since this haircut has more of a fringe area and lays flatter onto the forehead, it is suitable for all head shapes, and serves as an excellent option to conceal receding hairlines," she adds. Styling Suggestion: Apply some sea salt spray or texture paste like this option from Redken to damp hair and use the "rake and shake" method, directing the hair forward. Allow it to air dry or use a diffuser while scrunching the hair into place for a natural look.
LONG HAIRCUT STYLES
Here are four trending cuts for those who love the look of longer locks.
Technically, waves can be present at any hair length. But if you want to really extend the flow, longer waves are the way to go. According to Schwalje, this cut is ideal for those with thicker, slightly wavy hair textures and it entails asking your stylist to leave a few inches of length all around. "Request releasing some texture to enhance the natural wave pattern and alleviate some weighty areas. I love to do this with a razor," she explains. Styling Suggestion: Apply a creamy styling paste, like this good one from Reuzel to damp hair and use a diffuser to gently dry the waves in place. Once dry, feel free to add more paste and tousle for a relaxed finish.
"I have numerous clients interested in growing their hair long, and with many people working remotely, it seems they're embracing the freedom to do so," Schwalje says of the long middle part cut. She goes on to explain how the specifics of this style can be playful, allowing the length to fall around the chin or below, with a middle or slightly off-center part. Accommodating various hair textures, it can flow freely or be wrapped up in the style of your choice. "I prefer to keep layers minimal and long, if added at all, leaving the ends natural and soft with some texture," Schwalje adds. Styling Suggestion: Apply mousse to towel-dried hair and comb through with a wide-tooth comb. A good mousse option is this Aircraft one. Then, simply let it air dry. After it's dry, break up any crunchy bits with your fingers if you prefer a softer look.
This cut is a mix of medium and long lengths–perfect during the grow-out stage from a shorter cut, or if you're not ready to completely lose all that length from a previously long style. Schwalje says it's best suited for heart or square face shapes and styled without a part or set direction, making it great for an effortless, bedhead look. "Many textures and densities work well, but for those with finer hair or sparse spots throughout the top, be wary of using too much product as it could weigh it down," she adds. Styling Suggestion: Use a pliable paste, like the one from Davines, on damp, towel-dried hair. Work the product through the hair with your fingers, then blow-dry the hair while alternating directions from the front and sides. This will help eliminate any existing natural part lines, allowing for a seamless flow of hair. Once dried, add a little more paste to set the hair in the final place you choose.
"The shag craze is not exclusive to women; with the resurgence of long wispy lengths from the 70s, men are seeking to give their locks an airy and effortless shape," says Schwalje. She recommends asking your stylist to cut these shapes with a razor, particularly on wavy to curly textures, as super straight, flat hair may not be the best fit for this style. The fringe length is adjustable, but attention to the recession areas is crucial. "Request round, razored layers from your stylist that frame the face," Schwalje says. "The overall length can vary, ranging from below the ears to below the shoulders." Styling Suggestion: Apply a bit of hair balm, like this option from Morris Motley, and let air dry for a natural and relaxed look.
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Article written by Michael Stefanov for Miami Herald
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