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How to use coconut oil for hair, according to experts

Writer's picture: The Shampoo LoungeThe Shampoo Lounge

There's a right way to apply it.


Touted as a multi-tasking wonder, coconut oil has been used as beauty staple in the east for over 4000 years. But it’s only in the past decade or so, that we’ve gone wild for it here in the west. Now considered to be the holy grail of natural beauty, coconut oil is used for everything from cleansing to teeth whitening.


The superstar ingredient has become heralded as something of a hair hero, too. Rich in fatty acids and vitamins, coconut oil is said to help moisturise hair cuticles and soothe the scalp. There's also whisperings that it can help with healthy hair growth.


Popular among the A-listers, celebrities like Kourtney Kardashian and Miranda Kerr regularly champion coconut oil for hair. And you can now find entire skincare and hair care ranges spotlighting the naturally-occurring fatty oil.


But before you reach into your kitchen cabinet and start dousing your tresses in the stuff, it's worth taking heeding the advice of our experts.



Is coconut oil good for your hair?

“Coconut oil is one of many oils that can be used on the hair to improve its condition – and it’s actually one of the most studied oils in terms of the hair,” Anabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley, tells us.

Due to its low molecular weight and structure, it has been shown to have the ability to penetrate the hair shaft, regulate porosity, and reduce protein loss. It's rich in lauric acid (a fatty acid), which penetrates the hair shaft as well as completely coating each strand - trapping in moisture as well as making it water repellent.


In short, this means that whatever the weather, humidity isn't going to touch you thanks to the coconut oil force field you've created around your hair.


Lauric acid also has antimicrobial properties, which have been reported to benefit the scalp microbiome.


“In terms of the scalp, coconut oil can be useful when it’s formulated into wash-off scalp masks or ointments to address scalp conditions, like psoriasis, as it helps to soften scale and plaques making them easier to remove,” says Anabel. A good example of this is Cocois, which also contains coal tar and salicylic acid.



How much coconut oil should you use?

You can have too much of a good thing so use coconut oil in moderation. If you over apply, it could worsen dandruff as this type of yeast feeds off lauric acid. It also has the potential to clog pores and create a build-up on both the hair and scalp.


“Using too much coconut oil on your hair may weigh it down, so start off with a small amount and adjust as necessary,” advises Anabel. Those with finer hair or naturally oily scalps may find their hair looks and feels greasy after use.


What hair types is coconut oil good for?

Coconut oil is super moisturising, which is why those with curly, dry or Afro hair tend to see the most benefits as these hair types are notoriously drier. “There are a lot of Afro products that are coconut oil-based because it deeply moisturises the hair and penetrates the hair shaft,” explains Luke Benson, celebrity session stylist and owner of Luke Benson Hair.


“Finer hair can benefit from a lighter emulsion with a lower percentage of oil, whereas coarse or coiled hair may do better with a serum with a higher percentage,” adds Anabel.


What type of coconut oil should I use in my hair?

If you do decide to use coconut oil for its hair-boosting properties, it's important to use extra virgin varieties. These don't contain bleach or other chemicals that could irritate the scalp.


Do you put coconut oil on dry or wet hair?

This will depend on the benefits you're wanting to reap, but generally-speaking, “coconut oil can go onto dry or wet hair," says Luke. "For a pre shampoo treatment, apply it to dry hair before you wash it,” continues Luke. For use as a finishing product, apply it dry – and onto wet hair as a detangler or hair mask, apply it to wet hair.


How long do you leave coconut oil on hair for?

If you're using coconut oil as a hair mask you can leave it on your hair overnight or you can wash it off after 20-30 minutes. If your hair is finer, avoid your scalp and only apply it to the ends of your hair where it's especially dry and rinse off sooner.


Can I use coconut oil for hair growth?

In short, no. Coconut oil is a great quick fix for providing instant smoothness and shine – and it does have the potential to strengthen hair – but it's not the correct ingredient to choose for long-term hair health or growth.


“Growth is mainly affected by what you feed it at the roots, which means the nutrients in your diet,” continues Luke.

For hair growth, choose products that contain ingredients like caffeine, which boosts circulation to the scalp, promoting hair growth. Check out our round up of the best products to boost hair growth here.


Can you style hair with coconut oil?

Coconut oil doesn't have any hold and can be heavy on the hair so it's not really a great styler, as such. But you could use a small amount smoothed onto the ends to add shine and stop flyaways.


Article and pic taken glamourmagazine.co.uk

Article written by Bianca London, Emma-Jade Stoddart and Fiona Embleton

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