When it comes to choosing a haircut or sticking to a signature style, we often go with a look we love or a vibe we covet from a celebrity. However, experts say that rather than jumping on the latest trend blindly, consider your specific face shape, which can help you determine which iteration will look best on you. “The goal is always to create a flattering shape or silhouette to draw attention to the best features,” explains celebrity hairstylist Ashley Streicher.
A specific haircut paired with a certain face shape can have a powerful result. “You can create haircuts that slim down a round face, soften a square jaw, and add volume to an oval shape,” explains Streicher. “The right haircut just adds some balance to your head shape and look in general.” So, how do you know what face shape you have and the hair cuts that look best with them? Read on for tips from top hair pros to navigate it all.
Find Your Face Shape
Streicher says she always considers her client's face shape first and foremost. “The right style can complement and even enhance someone’s best or more prominent features.” According to hairstylist Jennifer Nast, “face shape is crucial in determining the most flattering haircut because it influences the balance and proportion of your overall appearance,” she says.
Why this matters so much: “The goal is to create harmony by enhancing your best features while softening or minimizing areas that might be less flattering,” Nast explains. “When a haircut complements your face shape, it can accentuate your eyes, highlight your cheekbones, or create the illusion of a more balanced silhouette.” To execute this in true pro form, Nast says she starts by analyzing a client’s face shape and paying the most attention to the length and width of the face, the jawline, and the position of the cheekbones. Want to give your face shape an expert-approved evaluation?
“To determine your face shape, look in the mirror and consider the proportions of your forehead, cheekbones, and jawline,” she says. “You can also trace the outline of your face with lipstick or a washable marker on the mirror to get a clearer view of the shape.
Haircuts for Oval Face Shape
“Oval faces are often longer than they are wide,” notes celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh. Those with oval faces tend to have elongated foreheads too. Nast explains that oval faces typically have a jawline that is soft and slightly rounded and the cheekbones are the broadest part of the face and considered an oval face shape, the most versatile shape.
"With a tall forehead that is only a bit wider than the chin, layering around the face is great to enhance the key features of an oval face,” he explains. And as important as what to focus on is, Josh notes that it’s also important to factor in what doesn’t flatter a face shape. “It’s best to try avoiding center parts,” says Josh, as this can make your forehead appear larger.
Long Layers
Long layers are great for oval faces because they highlight their natural symmetry without adding unneccessary width or length.
Bob Cut
A classic bob works well with oval shaped faces, drawing attention to the jawline and cheekbones
Side-Swept Bangs
“These can add a touch of sophistication while framing the face beautifully, without obscuring the proportions of the oval shape,” Nast explains.
Haircuts for Round Face Shape
Heart shaped faces, on the other hand, are wider than they are round, with full cheeks and a softer, less defined jawline. Josh explains that because “round faces typically feature softer angles, with the sides of the face curving slightly outward instead of going straight.”
“When working with a round face, longer hair and layers two inches below the chin can help to reshape and elongate the face,” Nast explains. Here are her top picks for haircuts for round face shapes.
Long Layers with Volume on Top
“Adding height at the crown elongates the face, creating the illusion of an oval shape,” Nast says. “Layers help break up the roundness and add dimension.”
Asymmetrical Bob
“This style, which is longer in the front and shorter in the back, helps to elongate the face while adding angles that counteract the roundness,” Nast explains.
Pixie Cut with Volume
“A pixie cut with volume at the top can create the appearance of a longer face, balancing out the roundness,” she notes.
Haircuts for Square Face Shape
Streicher says that a main characteristic of a square or diamond face (FYI: pros have combined these two since they are super close in shape) is an even shape that's as long as it is wide. Josh shares that when he’s cutting a client with a square face shape, they often “feature a sharp, angular bone structure and jawline,” he says. “And when you have a square face shape, it is best to avoid blunt and hard edges and it’s best to go for softer styles and flowing looks that can help round out the more angular features.” Nast explains that for a square face shape featuring a broad forehead and a strong, angular jawline, typically the width of the forehead, cheekbones and jaw are similar, which is why she opts for these specific styles for this face shape.
Soft, Wispy Bangs
“These can soften the angles of the face, especially the strong jawline, creating a more rounded appearance,” Nast explains.
Long, Soft Layers
"Long layers that start below the jaw can add softness and movement, reducing the emphasis on the squareness of the face,” she explains.
Side-Parted Styles
“A deep side part can break up the symmetry of a square face, adding softness and shifting focus away from the jawline,” Nast says.
Haircuts for Diamond Face Shape
Nast explains that for a diamond face shape, you’ll often notice that the shape is “narrow at the forehead and jawline with wide, prominent cheekbones.” Although not the most common of shapes, and often mistaken for a square shape, she explains that to balance out the unique structure, she recommends these haircuts and styles.
Chin-Length Bob
“A short bob adds width to the narrow jawline and helps to balance the face’s proportions,” Nast notes.
Layered Pixie Cut
“A layered pixie with fullness around the temples can balance the narrowness of the forehead and jaw, while drawing attention to the cheekbones,” Nast explains.
Side-Swept Bangs
“A side-swept bang can soften the angles of the face and reduce the prominence of the cheekbones, creating a more balanced look,” she says.
Haircuts for Heart Face Shape
If you think you have a heart face shape, Streicher says you likely see that “your face is wider than it is long, you may have a round or heart shaped face,” she says. Josh explains that “heart shaped faces often feature a wider forehead and a pointed chin,” he says. His go to for a heart face shape is typically side bangs. “Side bangs are great to soften and bring out cheekbones to balance the face,” he says. Nast explains that due to a heart shaped face having a wider forehead, high cheekbones and a narrow, pointed chin, she recommends these signature styles to compliment this face shape.
Long, Side-Swept Bangs
“These can balance a wider forehead and bring attention to the eyes and cheekbones while softening the chin,” Nast explains.
Chin-Length Bob
“A bob that hits right at the chin helps to add width to the lower part of the face, balancing the narrow chin with the broader forehead,” she says.
Wavy Lob (Long Bob)
“A wavy lob can add volume and width around the jawline, balancing out the face’s shape,” Nast says.
Frequently Asked Questions
What else is important to consider when determining my face shape?
“You need to also consider your hairline, bone structure and both the length and width of your face and head,” says Streicher.
Do any other factors other than a haircut help flatter a face shape?
According to Josh, “for every haircut mentioned, color is crucial,” he says. “I’m always a fan of everyone going slightly lighter than natural color with a little bit of dimension—not only does it bring out the haircut, but softens the entire look.”
When would my face shape not factor into what haircut to choose?
“Face shape might not be as critical if the individual has other dominant features such as a very long neck or particularly prominent eyes, which they might prefer to highlight or minimize,” Nast says. “Personal style, hair texture and lifestyle also play significant roles in determining the best haircut, too.”
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Article written by Nicole Catanese for instyle
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